Glass-lined tanks are insulated steel cylinders with an enamel coating on the inside – the lining helps prevent corrosion. If it’s not installed properly, the water heater can explode. There are standards that regulate the safety of installation and design of water heaters. Certification marks on them from approved agencies indicate compliance with approved standards.

Conventional residential water heaters have life expectancies that vary, typically having a lifespan of roughly 10 years based on the following factors: usage volume, correct installation, maintenance, and construction quality.

Correct Installation

A water heater should normally be installed upright. Installing a water heater on its side will place stress on it due to inadequate support for the pipes and heater as a whole, and may cause a shorter lifespan. Water heaters should be installed in well-ventilated areas, not just for fire safety and nitrous-oxide buildup, but because poor ventilation can also shorten its lifespan. It  should also not be placed in an area susceptible to flood damage, as water can rust out the pipes and exterior. A water heater is best placed in an easily accessible area for maintenance, and should also be readily visible for fire and health-hazard requirements.

Usage

The life expectancy of the water heater depends on the volume of water used. If large quantities of water are being used, the water heater will have to work harder to heat it. The greater the volume of water, the greater the abrasive effect of the water will be on the pipes, tank materials, etc.

Construction Quality

Cheaper water heater models will have a shorter lifespan, while more expensive models will generally last longer. Check the warranty as a good indication of a water heater’s construction quality, as longer warranties naturally imply sound construction. According to a 2007 Consumer Report that deconstructed 18 different models of water heaters, models with longer warranties were of superior manufacturing quality, with 9- and 12-year models usually having larger or higher-wattage heating elements, as well as thicker insulation. Models with larger heating elements have a much better resistance to mineral buildup or scum. 

Porcelain casing provides an additional layer of protection against rusting and a greater level of heat insulation. Some models come with a self-cleaning feature that can flush the pipes of mineral deposit buildup, which can affect the unit’s lifespan. Models with larger or thicker anodes are better-equipped to fight corrosion.

Maintenance & Parts Replacement

If you have hard water, that is another consideration when looking at estimating the lifespan of a water heater. If you live in an area where there’s a higher mineral content to the water, water heaters have shorter a lifespan, since mineral buildup reduces its efficiency. Even with soft water, some mineral deposition is still a possibility. To counteract mineral buildup, periodically flush the water heater system. This process also heats the water in the tank. Pricier models typically come equipped with a self-flushing feature. While manual flushing is required in some models, it’s important to not damage the water heater valve, which is easy to break due to it being made of plastic.

Although an older model may appear to be well-maintained, is the maintenance worth it? Warranties often do not include labor costs, so if the total repair cost per year is greater than 10% of the cost of buying and installing a new water heater, it’s not worth replacing any parts that have been damaged.

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Condition: Window frames, sashes and sills should be monitored because the interior condition and hardware of windows change over time. Frame materials can include steel, aluminum, plastic, wood, plastic-clad wood, and metal-clad (aluminum or steel) wood. Window types include single-hung, double-hung, horizontal sliding, casement, projected out or awning, fixed, and projected in.

The putty around the window glass panels should be watched carefully, since this is a vulnerable part of the window. Check the panels in aluminum or steel sashes for signs of deterioration, such as hardened sealant. Check metal sashes for weep holes that have been blocked by sealant, paint or dirt. Weep holes are usually easy to clean. And storm doors and windows should be monitored for weathertightness, operation, fit, and overall condition. 

Weatherstripping: Door and window weatherstripping is generally one of three types; foam, metal plastic, or plastic stripping. Each type should have a solid fit. Check the metal for bends, dents and straightness, and check foam plastic for resiliency, and plastic stripping for any cracks. Make sure the weatherstripping is securely held in place. 

Awnings & Shutters: Every once in a while, check the shutters’ operation and observe their fit and condition. Shutters close to the ground can be examined from the ground, and shutters off the ground should be examined from inside the house. 

Monitor the condition of your awnings, since the attachment to the exterior wall could become loose. An attachment device in the mortar joint of a brick wall can be pulled or slid outward, and some windows and glazed exterior doors have awnings over them for decoration, sun control, and weather protection. 

Egress Windows for Fire Safety

Egress: Basements and every sleeping room should have at least one operable emergency escape and rescue opening that opens directly onto a public alley, public street, court or yard. This standard is required because many injuries or deaths happen when occupants are asleep at the time of a house fire and the usual means of escape (through doors) are normally blocked. 

The sill height of the rescue and emergency escape opening should not be more than 44 inches above the floor. A window well should be provided if the window has a sill height below ground level. It should have a horizontal area of at least 9 sq. feet, with a minimum horizontal projection and width of 36 inches. The porch or deck should allow the window to be fully opened and the escape path should be at least 3 feet high if an emergency escape window is located under a porch or deck. 

You can’t be prepared to act in an emergency if you don’t have a plan and everybody knows what that plan is. Fear and panic can spread as quickly as a fire, so make sure to map out an escape route and a meeting place outdoors. Involve even the youngest family members so that everyone can work together to make a safe escape.

Flashlight: None of the tools you own will be of any use if you cannot visually inspect the situation at hand. The problem and solution are fixed only with a good flashlight. A traditional two-battery flashlight can usually work well, as larger flashlights may be too bulky. Having backups at home ,and in your cars too, is a must in case of emergency.

Tape Measure: Measuring house projects requires a tape measure—not a ruler. Tape measures come in many lengths, although one that is at least 25 ft is best. Measure everything at least twice to ensure accuracy, regardless of the project.

Safety Goggles: For all tasks involving any power tools or hammer, you should always wear safety glasses for eye protection. They should also be worn while you’re doing major renovation projects, especially drywall, since anything that can go airborne upon destruction can wind up in your eyes, causing irritation or injury. 

Hacksaw: A hacksaw is useful for cutting metal objects, such as bolts, brackets, and pipes. Blades are replaceable, so focus your purchase on a quality hacksaw frame. Use a stable surface for cutting, and use caution, as a hacksaw injury can be very painful and deep.

Torpedo Level: Only a level can be used to determine if something, such as a shelf or picture frame, is correctly oriented. The torpedo-style level is unique because it not only shows when an object is perfectly horizontal and vertical, but it also has a gauge that shows when an object is at a 45-degree angle. The bubble in the viewfinder must be exactly in the middle for accuracy.

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The interior condition of exterior doors can wear out over time, and should be monitored for the condition of their frames and sills. Check doors that are not protected from the weather for the presence of essential flashing at the head.

Interior Doors: Check their hardware for finish, wear, and proper functioning. Monitor the condition of your doors and frames, including the interior of storm doors and entrance doors. Sticking doors or out-of-square frames may indicate house settlement, which is normal.  

Exterior Doors:  Exterior doors should be checked often for their condition, operation, and the functionality of their hardware. Door types include hinged, and single and double doors made of steel, aluminum, wood,, and plastic with or without glazing. Monitor wood and plastic doors that are not protected from the weather – these doors should be rated for exterior use. Some houses use glass-framed doors with operable panels that have wood, vinyl-covered wood, and aluminum frames. Check the tracks of these sliding doors for breaks, breaks and straightness. 

Garage Doors: Garage doors should be monitored for operation, overall condition, and fit. Garage doors are typically made of steel, wood, hardboard on a wood frame, fiberglass on a steel frame, or aluminum. They come with glazed panes in many styles. Wood and hardboard can rot, steel can rust, hardboard can crack and split, fiberglass can deteriorate from ultraviolet light, and aluminum can dent. 

Garage doors with motors should be tested every now and then using each of the operators on the system, such as key-lock switch or combination lock keypad, where control must be accessible on the exterior remote electrical switch, photo-electric control switch, or radio signal switch. Check the operation for smoothness, speed of operation, quietness, and of course, safety. Also check for the presence and proper operation of the door safety-reversing device. View the exposed parts of the installation for loose connections, rust, and bent or damaged pieces. 

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